Sugess S398-2 Chronograph Moonphase Watch

Sugess S398-2 Chronograph Moonphase Watch — ST1908 Swanneck, 41mm, Hand-Wound

The Sugess S398-2 is a 41mm hand-wound mechanical dress watch powered by the Seagull ST1908 with swanneck regulator — combining a chronograph (with tachymeter scale) and a moonphase display within a single movement. Sapphire crystal, luminous hands, exhibition caseback revealing the ST1908 swanneck architecture, genuine leather strap and 50m water resistance. Available in dark blue, salmon and white dial configurations.

Key Specifications

Variants — Three Dial Configurations

Dark blue dial: A deep navy or dark blue field with subdial registers and the moonphase aperture. The most contemporary and striking of the three — the dark blue creates a dramatic backdrop for the chronograph sub-dials and the moonphase disc.

Salmon dial: A warm pink-orange dial — salmon is a specific colour associated with higher-end dress watch design, particularly in European watchmaking. Salmon dials are specifically collected and are less commonly available at this price tier. The warmth of the salmon against gold-tone or silver case hardware creates a specific vintage formal character.

White dial: A clean white dial — the most formally conservative and most legible of the three. The chronograph sub-dials and moonphase aperture read with maximum contrast against the white field.

Seagull ST1908 — Chronograph and Moonphase in One Movement

The ST1908 is one of the most mechanically complex Seagull calibers — an integrated movement that performs both chronograph and moonphase functions within a single architecture rather than adding a complication module on top of a base movement.

Why integration matters: modular chronographs add complications by attaching a separate mechanism on top of a base movement. This increases thickness and can create mechanical inconsistencies at the interface between module and base. The ST1908’s integrated architecture keeps both functions within a single movement design, contributing to the 12mm case thickness — slim for a watch with this complication count.

Chronograph function:

• Central chronograph seconds hand with orange or contrasting accent
• 30-minute counter sub-dial
• Running seconds sub-dial independent of the chronograph
• Tachymeter scale on the dial perimeter for speed calculation

Moonphase function:

• Moonphase disc tracking the 29.5-day lunar cycle
• Set via crown or pusher (set outside 9 PM–3 AM to avoid gear damage)

Hand-winding only: No automatic rotor. Daily crown winding required — typically 20–25 half-turns to bring the mainspring to full tension. The absence of a rotor presents the caseback view cleanly without an oscillating weight.

Swanneck Regulator on the ST1908

The swanneck regulator — a curved fine-adjustment spring blade pressing against the regulator index — provides more stable and precise rate adjustment than a conventional spring. Once set, the swanneck resists drifting from the adjusted position under normal wear vibration. It is also a finishing element: the swan’s neck profile is visible through the exhibition caseback alongside the golden movement bridges, polished steel wheels and heat-blued screws.

The swanneck on the ST1908 is the same regulator concept as on the simpler S365 ST1901, applied here to a significantly more complex integrated movement.

Moonphase Adjustment Warning

Do not operate the moonphase quick-set between 9:00 PM and 3:00 AM. During these hours the calendar mechanism is mid-advance and adjusting the moonphase pushpiece risks damaging the gear train. Set the moonphase display during daytime hours only. This caution applies to all mechanical moonphase watches.

Exhibition Caseback

The screw-in sapphire caseback presents the ST1908 architecture — golden movement bridges, heat-blued screws, the swanneck spring blade and the gear train in operation. On a hand-wound chronograph moonphase, the caseback view shows a more complex mechanism than on most watches in this batch — the integration of chronograph and moonphase gear trains within a single movement creates a denser, more detailed view through the rear window.

Tachymeter Scale

The tachymeter scale printed or applied around the outer dial perimeter allows speed calculation over a known distance using the chronograph. Measure the time to travel one unit of distance (one mile, one kilometre) using the chronograph, then read the corresponding speed from the tachymeter scale at the position of the elapsed seconds hand. The tachymeter adds a historical functional reference to the racing/pilot chronograph character of the watch.

S398-2 vs ST1908 Chronograph Only

You have two ST1908 swanneck pages: this S398-2 (chronograph + moonphase) at position 9.44 and the ST1908 swanneck chronograph (chronograph only) at position 10.3. These are different products and should remain separate pages — the moonphase complication is a significant functional and price distinction. Ensure each page clearly states whether moonphase is present or absent in the title and meta description.

Who Is the Sugess S398-2 For?

The S398-2 is built for:

• Buyers who want both chronograph and moonphase complications in a single integrated hand-wound movement — the most mechanically complex combination in the Sugess range
• Swanneck regulator enthusiasts who want the finest available adjustment mechanism on a complex movement
• Salmon dial buyers specifically — salmon is a collected dress watch dial colour with limited availability at accessible prices
• Buyers who want the most sophisticated mechanical complication available in the Sugess range

How It Compares

vs. Sugess ST1908 Swanneck Chronograph — The chronograph-only version of the same ST1908 swanneck movement. Significantly lower price — the moonphase addition on the S398-2 is the specific premium.

vs. Sugess S365 ST1901 Chrono — The S365 uses the simpler ST1901 hand-wound chronograph without moonphase. The S398-2 is the step up in both complexity and price.

vs. Sugess V3 Moonphase — The V3 uses the ST2528 with moonphase + big date (no chronograph) at automatic winding and a lower price. The S398-2 is the hand-wound chronograph + moonphase combination for buyers who want both timing and lunar complications simultaneously.

vs. Phylida SP-31 ST-19 Chrono — The Phylida uses the ST-19 hand-wound column-wheel chronograph without moonphase at a lower price. The S398-2 adds the moonphase as the premium step-up.

More from Jewelry Addicts

• Sugess ST1908 Swanneck Chronograph — chronograph-only ST1908 swanneck version
• Sugess S365 ST1901 Chrono — simpler ST1901 hand-wound chronograph
• Sugess V3 Moonphase — moonphase + big date automatic alternative
• Phylida SP-31 ST-19 Chrono — ST-19 mechanical chronograph alternative
• Best Automatic Watches Under $200 — full roundup

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